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3 G Prius – Four Driving Modes

July 17th, 2009 • Related • Filed Under
Filed Under: Specs

EV-ECO-Power-Mode-PriusEvery time you leave the driveway, the 2010 Toyota Prius allows you to select from several driving modes. While it appears the 3rd Gen Prius only allows drivers to choose between three options (see photo on right), there actually are four.

1. EV (sometimes referred to as Stealth Mode): Choosing this mode helps to keep the vehicle in all electric mode longer than the others. Under perfect conditions, EV will allow you to reach speeds of up to 25 miles per hour for 1/2 to 1 mile.

2. ECO Mode (Economy Mode): This mode maximizes fuel savings across all driving conditions. It smooths out (modifies) the electronic throttle control program, thus reducing throttle response. It also changes air conditioning operation in an effort to reduce fuel consumption. Just how much will ECOmode save you in gas? Some report 10-20% improvements by driving in Eco all the time.

3. PWR Mode (Power Mode): Want to accelerate a little faster? Power mode provides an immediate response when you step on the gas. This is probably the least efficient mode, but it helps when you need to keep up with traffic and/or merge onto a busy interstate. (Note – I use this mode most often, and currently average about 51 MPG.)

4. Normal Mode: We asked Bill Kwong, Toyota Product Communications Specialist, to clear up the confusion about this 4th driving mode – since unlike the others, it can’t be selected by pushing one of the handy buttons. According to Mr. Kwong, “Iif you do not select a drive mode, then you are in normal hybrid mode”. Since there aren’t any special circumstances here, it is probably easiest to define this mode based on how it differs from the other three.

So, is there a default driving mode? Yes and no. If you have the Prius in Normal or Eco mode when you turn it off, this is the mode you are in the next time you start the vehicle. At the same time, if your were in Power or EV mode when you last drove, you will start in Normal mode next time.

Bottom line is, the mode you select will likely depend on your driving conditions and what kind of driver you are. With the exception of EV mode, I like to think of it this way. If you want to get a quick start from a dead stop, it’s easiest to do with Power mode. You don’t need to slam the pedal to the floor, as pushing it down just a little does the trick. If you are trying to eeck a few more miles out of each gallon, ECO mode helps you do so without even thinking. You actually have to press the pedal down much further to accelerate. Normal mode is somewhere in between.

Purely from a “save at the pump” perspective, closely monitoring your driving mode in an effort to improve from 50 mpg to 55 mpg may not be worth the effort. In my quick analysis, if you drive 15,000 miles per year and gas averages $2.50/gal – you might save $70 a year. I prefer to keep up with traffic, which seems safer for several reasons. :)

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There Are 3 Responses So Far. »

  1. Comment by Chris K. on 21 August 2009:

    I am pretty sure I was able to switch to normal mode this morning by pressing “ECO” when the car was already in “ECO”; in other words the buttons toggle between their mode and “normal”.

  2. Comment by Clydie on 2 September 2009:

    Article says you can switch driving modes when leaving the driveway. How about during driving? Can you make a switch mid-drive while moving?

  3. Comment by Zeph on 24 November 2009:

    @Chris K – yes, I switch Eco mode on and off with the Eco button.

    @Clydie – yes, you can change modes while driving (moving to EV might not work due the the described limitations).

    I also switch from D to B and back as I drive the local hills. B increases the “no gas/no brake” electric regeneration – there’s more drag on the car as it regenerates more power. (According to the display a lesser degree of this happens even in D). In hybrid terms, it’s sort of like very slightly but continually pressing the brake whenever not using the accellerator in order to slow by regenerating, but not enough to activate the brake pads. In conventional terms it’s like using engine braking, except you get some of the energy back.

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